{"id":3002,"date":"2022-03-25T14:47:00","date_gmt":"2022-03-25T07:47:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thailandfoundation.or.th\/?post_type=culture_heritage&p=3002"},"modified":"2025-04-28T20:00:09","modified_gmt":"2025-04-28T13:00:09","slug":"women-in-thai-cuisine-part-1-the-classical-era","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thailandfoundation.or.th\/th\/women-in-thai-cuisine-part-1-the-classical-era\/","title":{"rendered":"Women in Thai Cuisine (Part 1): The Classical Era"},"content":{"rendered":"

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If I ask you to name a few world\u2019s famous chefs right now, you\u2019ll probably think of male chefs who run cooking shows or write best-selling cookbooks, and other faces you often see on mainstream media. However, if you shift the focus to your family, the most fundamental unit of society, your first memories of food probably revolve around the women in your house, either your mother or grandmother. After all, the very food source of every baby is its mother, isn\u2019t it?<\/span><\/p>\n

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The Thai food scene nowadays may be teeming with talented male chefs (whom we are proud of by all accounts). Still, we are proud to say that for the most part of history, Thai culinary culture has been developed, preserved, and innovated by women. In light of the celebrations of the achievements and contributions of women in the month of International Women\u2019s Day, we invite you to explore the stories of influential women in Thai cuisine and their flavorful contributions through this article series that will piece together the evolution of Thai food, from the classical era, the era of change, to the modern era.<\/span><\/p>\n

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The Queendom of the Kitchen<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Thai women have always been taking a major role in Thai food. On television, female chefs may be working their way to gain more representation, but in the real world, female chefs throughout the country sit gracefully on their thrones. If you notice the names of restaurants, dessert shops, or famous food brands, especially those of ancient recipes, you will find countless names that begin with \u201cmae<\/em>\u201d which means \u201cmother.\u201d To give you a few examples, we have Mae Pranom<\/em> (dipping sauce), Mae Kim Lung <\/em>(Thai custard), Mae Lamiad<\/em> (Thai custard), Sam Mae Krua<\/em> (canned mackerel), Mae Puay Lang<\/em> (rice cracker), Mae Buay<\/em> (Thai sponge cake), Mae Pom<\/em> (Thai cotton candy or Roti Saimai ), Mae Pranee<\/em> (Thai-styled fried dough), and so on. The last two brands even received the \u201cBib Gourmand Award\u201d which is given to food establishments that offer exceptionally good food at reasonable prices). Basically, almost every famous Thai traditional dessert brand starts with the \u201cmae<\/em>,\u201d we dare you to try them all.<\/span><\/p>\n

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[cr. Sanook<\/a>]<\/p>\n

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In addition, the outstanding cooking skills of Thai women are the charm that captivates men\u2019s hearts. A Thai idiom \u201cSanay Plai Chawak<\/em>\u201d precisely describes this tasty attraction. Sanay<\/em> [\u0e40\u0e2a\u0e19\u0e48\u0e2b\u0e4c] means charm while plai<\/em> [\u0e1b\u0e25\u0e32\u0e22] means the edge or end, and chawak<\/em> [\u0e08\u0e27\u0e31\u0e01] means a ladle. Altogether, it is translated as \u201cthe charm at the ladle\u2019s end.\u201d In the old days, parents who were looking for a wife for their son would prefer a young woman who was an amazing cook. This value is communicated through many popular Thai folk songs. For example, in The Goddess of Thai Sarongs[1]<\/strong><\/a> (Thep Thida Pha Sin)<\/em>, a song by Seree Rungsawang says that \u201cIf you are looking for a good woman, look at the mother\u2026\u2026\u2026\u2026Every time she pounds chili paste, the frequency of the pounding sound is so powerful that the rice field is shaken.\u201d<\/em> This part of the lyrics also shows that the mother is responsible for training her daughter to cook and look after the family.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\u201cSum Rub\u201d \u2013 Compassion on the Table<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

When the food is ready, we bring it out to the dining room. Unlike the western culture in which the order of dishes begins with an entr\u00e9e, followed by a main course, and ended with a dessert, the Thai culture has what is known as a sum rub <\/em>[\u0e2a\u0e33\u0e23\u0e31\u0e1a]. Literally, sum rub <\/em>means dinnerware, but in the real life usage, it refers to a Thai set meal.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Thais live in extended families, with many generations sharing the same roof. We love to eat in, and therefore, mealtime is our quality time. To ensure that all generations of the family \u2013 children, adults, and seniors \u2013 can equally enjoy the meals, we prepare a balanced sum rub<\/em> that contains all flavors and textures. In other words, there must be 1) a spicy dish and fresh vegetables for adults who can handle strong flavors and have healthy teeth to crunch raw greens, 2) mild-flavored and soft-textured food for grandparents who are less tolerant to spices, and 3) a sugar-added dish for children and adults to alternate with spicy food. A real sum rub<\/em> may have a deep fried fish (soft and tender meat), tom yum koong (spicy), clear soup (mild broth for the elderly and children), sweet pork cutlets (for children and adults) and fresh and boiled vegetables with chili paste dip (for everyone and for kids to familiarize themselves with spicy food).<\/span><\/p>\n

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[cr. Post Today]<\/p>\n

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Through the sum rub, the lady of the house exercises her compassion and love for her family members.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Ladies in the Royal Court<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

After the founding of Rattanakosin in 1782, the Grand Palace became the center of fine arts and culture, including culinary art, known as the royal cuisine. Generally, the royal cuisine is similar to commoner cuisine, but more refined in flavors and aesthetics. The taste must be mellow, smooth and balanced. Strong flavors are avoided. The appearance must be exquisitely beautiful. The cooking techniques and presentation must be meticulous so that the royal family could savor the meals while keeping their graceful manners.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Some of the important female figures in charge of royal cookery in the early Rattanakosin period were Her Royal Highness Princess Srisudarak, sister of King Rama I, who supervised food preparation in the royal kitchen, and Queen Sri Suriyendra of King Rama II, who oversaw the cuisine for King Rama II to King RamaVI.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Celebrated recipes during the reign of King Rama I included “kaeng ron khanom jin namya” (the rice noodles with hot curry) invented by Concubine Waen from Vientiane. During the annual merit making ceremony of the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, King Rama I ordered to cook khanom jin namya to feed thousands of monks every day. Concubine Waen, praised for her excellent hot curry, was trusted by the king to prepare the offering. She also invented a snack called “khai hong” (swan\u2019s eggs). It is said that, King Rama I wished to have monitor lizard\u2019s eggs, but no one could find the eggs since it was out of season. Concubine Waen then created a dessert that looked like the lizard\u2019s eggs, made from glutinous rice flour mixed with sweet potato stuffed with salted green beans. It was named “khai hong” instead of “khai hia”\u00a0<\/em>(monitor lizard\u2019s eggs) for politeness because “hia”<\/em> is a swearword in Thai.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Khanom Jin Namya<\/em> [cr. Happy Fresh]<\/p>\n

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Lady Thongyu invented “khanom khang khao” (bat-shaped snack), a savory dessert made of shrimp and coconut filling wrapped in triangular dough which looks like a bat spreading its wings. The stuffed dough is fried until golden crispy and enjoyed with dipping sauce.<\/span><\/p>\n

Princess Ku, also known as Lady Wat Pho, was the aunt of King Rama II, and cooked delectable Thai dumplings with pork filling. Her dough folding skill was unmatched. Her dumplings looked delicate with sheer and thin flour, revealing the pork filling inside. The edges of the wrapping dough were sharp like the folding of a royal woman\u2019s robe.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Diversity of Thai Cuisine in Ayutthaya \u2013 Early Rattanakosin Era<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Culturally, food is an edible proof of the history and richness of a country. The abundance of natural resources in Thailand is obvious to everyone including Jeremias Van Vliet, a Dutch merchant of the East India Company, who wrote in his journal that \u201cSiam is <\/em>blessed with nature\u2019s bounty<\/em>. People can subsist on domestic products and fruits\u2026 They can live very well without having to rely on the produce of other countries\u2026<\/em>\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

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During the transition from the Ayutthaya era, to the Thon Buri era, and finally to the Rattanakosin era, the palace welcomed elite ladies from many territories, not only Thais, but also princesses from the satellite or subject states and allies, such as Cambodia, China, Chiang Mai (north of Thailand), Nakhon Si Thammarat (south of Thailand), and Muslim states. The different backgrounds of these ladies enriched the royal and common food scene with diversity and uniqueness. Not to mention the Chinese, Indian, and European influence that entered Thailand through trade and introduced multiculturalism to Thai food. Another piece of evidence from a foreigner\u2019s diary stated that the food offered to foreign guests by the Thai royal court was not Thai, but foreign food, be it Chinese or European or Arabian dishes. We may assume that the kitchen of the Thai royal court must have boasted an international working environment with cooks from many nationalities rubbing shoulders.<\/span><\/p>\n

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The food mentioned above reflects this diversity very well. For example, khanom khang khao\u00a0<\/em>is believed to have a Persian inspiration due to its resemblance to samosas or curry puffs. The Thai dumplings and noodles are influenced by China. We add sugar to our snacks like the Arabs, and use egg and milk in sweets like the Westerners.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Important Individuals<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n