Introduction

Clothing serves as more than a covering for the body; it represents the culture and even the personality of its wearer. While the basic creation of textiles involves weaving and dyeing, each culture has developed its own unique techniques and methods that define its artistic identity. Thailand, as a country with both environmental and cultural diversity, possesses a rich heritage of textile crafts that is passed down from generation to generation. This article will take you on an exploration of natural dyes used in traditional Thai textiles, echoing Thailand’s artistry, local wisdom, and sustainable practices.

A Brief History

It is hard to pinpoint when dyeing first began in Thailand. However, we can say that people in the area have been long familiar with weaving and dyeing fabrics. Given the fact that Thai ancestors lived close to nature, common materials used for dyeing come mostly from natural resources, especially plants. These natural dyes are highly prized in terms of cultural and commercial value, not only by the Thais, but also foreigners, serving as both exports and gifts. In ancient times, the country’s chief exports included dye materials such as lacs, teaks, sappan woods, etc. Many ethnic groups have also settled in Thailand over the course of history, each bringing its own dyeing materials and skills. This cultural exchange helped enrich the variety of dyes in Thai textiles.

Dyeing Techniques

In Thai textile production, there are two traditional dyeing techniques: hot and cool dyeing. While both methods involve pigment extraction, they differ slightly in the procedure. Hot dyeing utilizes heat to facilitate pigment excretion. On the other hand, cool dyeing relies on the natural interaction between pigments and fabrics to create colors.

 

Thai Traditional Dyeing

Cr. course.cmru

Colors

There are countless shades of colors in traditional Thai textiles. Artisans may apply or combine techniques such as redyeing, post-dye processing, and blending colors to create new shades or new colors. The interplay of yarns with different colors woven together also produces a wide range of color-blending patterns. However, at the primary level, there is a “trinity” of colors that subsequently function as the foundation to create many more shades and colors. These primary colors include red, yellow, and blue.

 

Red in Thai textiles comes mostly from lacs, small insects living on the tree branch and feeding themselves with sap. Lacs naturally excrete coating substances like resins or shellacs to cover their bodies. Those shellacs contain pigments that yield the color red. Thus, to extract the red hue, local dyers often chop the lacs into pieces and dissolve them in boiling water before applying the dye on fabrics. Due to its vividness, giving a bright red hue, lacs are considered a typical source of red dye that Thai artisans are most familiar with.

 

Lacs

Cr. agrinewsthai

 

Yellow is derived from a variety of sources. One common material that creates yellow pigments is Garcinia vilersiana Pierre or “pra hod” (ประโหด), a local plant growing in evergreen forests, especially in the eastern region. Due to its vibrant yellow hue, pra hod is widely used among dyers. Meanwhile, turmeric is another favored source of yellow dye. A garden plant, turmeric is considered a common and cost-saving material to dye Thai fabrics. Turmeric contains a high amount of curcumin, a special substance that produces yellow pigments, making it valuable for dyeing purposes.

 

Garcinia vilersiana Pierre or “pra hod”

Cr. ๑๐๘ พรรณไม้ไทย

 

Indigo blue is a significant dye that has been developed in many cultures across the world, including Thailand. In Thai textiles, indigo dyes can be derived from “hom” (ฮ่อม), a local annual crop growing in cold weather in the Northern region and “khram” (คราม), a plant which is widely cultivated in the Northeast region. While many might mistake them for one another, there are slight differences between them which will be later clarified.

 

Hom

Cr. องค์กรความรู้เพื่อการพัฒนาพื้นที่สูงอย่างยั่งยืน

 

Materials

Thailand’s rich resources and the connection between nature and the Thai way of life are reflected through the materials used in Thai fabrics, which primarily come from plants, animals, minerals, and a combination of different materials.

1. Plant-based Dyes

Plants are fundamental materials for dyeing, as each contains natural substances and pigments that can be easily dissolved in water, creating numerous color tones. Thai textiles utilize a variety of plants as natural dyes, for example, ebony fruit for black dye, java plum for light purple, marigold for yellow, Siamese neem for brown, and sappan tree for pink and burgundy.

2. Animal Dyes

Even though pigments from plants are the most common sources of natural dyes, they are not the only option. Some animals also produce natural substances that can be used for dyeing. The most famous example, mentioned earlier, is lac. Another example is squid ink, which contains melanin pigments that produce a wide range of colors varying among species, including black, blue-black, or sepia brown.

3. Mineral Dyes

While organic dyes from plants and animals are widely recognized, there is an alternative form of natural dye derived from inorganic sources as well. In contrast to dyes obtained from pigments or melanin in living creatures, these inorganic dyes are made up of metallic compounds found in minerals such as chromium, iron, copper, cobalt, nickel, etc. A great example is a khaki dye which is made from iron oxide mixed with chromium oxide.

4. Combining Materials

Some dyeing techniques utilize more than one natural resource. For example, in Buriram province, local artisans craft “Pha Phu Akkanee” (ผ้าภูอัคนี), a special kind of cloth dyed with a mixture of volcanic soil and padauk bark. They begin the process by chopping padauk leaves and boiling them in hot water to extract rich red-brown pigments. To enhance color fixation, the yarns are often soaked in the padauk leaf dye first. Afterward, volcanic soil is dissolved in water. Once the water turns brown, the fabrics are soaked in the dye bath for 8-10 hours, allowing them to absorb the rich pigments of the brownish solution. The intensity of the color varies depending on the amount of water added.

 

Pha Phu Akkanee (ผ้าภูอัคนี)

Cr. thaitextile

Resources and Materials in Different Regions

The geography of Thailand can be divided into four regions, each with its own unique natural resources. Thailand is also a multicultural society with many ethnic groups living across the country. Each culture has developed and inherited its own identity and local wisdom. With geographical and cultural diversity in play, each region of Thailand has developed its own repertoire of dyeing techniques and materials. Here are some examples of Thailand’s regional dyeing practices:

• Northern region

Northern Thailand can be geographically described as mountainous, with lower humidity and rainfall. The predominant type of forest in this region is mixed deciduous forest. Common plants growing in this area such as teak, “Hom” (ฮ่อม), turmeric, and annatto comprise the main natural dyes.

Northern Thailand is where the Lanna Kingdom (ล้านนา) once stood. This region is home to many ethnic groups living on both plains and high mountains. Each group utilizes different coloring materials that have been passed down from generation to generation. For example, the S’Gaw Karen use black dye, a lacquer from the crown flower, as they believe its color serves as protection from danger. The Hmong people have their signature natural dye extracted from local plants called hom to dye “morhom” (ม่อฮ่อม), an indigo-dyed shirt. In producing the indigo dye, the Hmong people begin with growing hom and preparing dyeing vats themselves. Special materials such as alkali water and limestone are added to help pigments better adhere to the fabric.

 

Morhom (ม่อฮ่อม), an indigo-dyed shirt

Cr. phafaithai

 

• Northeastern Region

Northeast Thailand, also known as Isan, is a raised plateau of plains surrounded by mountains. Due to its dryness, natural resources for dyes particularly come from typical plants in deciduous dipterocarp forests such as the tembusu tree, “kradon (กระโดน)”, indigo, “inthanin” (อินทนิล), and Burma padauk.

 

“Once we’re free from farming, women will weave cloths, and men will weave baskets”

(ยามว่างจากงานในนา ผู้หญิงทอผ้า ผู้ชายจักสาน)

 

is an old saying that mirrors the artistic culture of Isan people. “Mudmee” (มัดหมี่), known in the West as ikat, is a popular textile-making technique in this region.

 

Mudmee, textile-making technique in Northeastern Region

Cr. esanpedia

 

In making Mudmee, the patterns of the fabric are designed in advance. Local artisans employ
a technique wherein they tie specific sections of thread with a banana straw or hemp rope before dyeing. When the dyeing process begins, those tied parts are left unbleached, but the untied parts are dyed instead. This approach creates multidimensional patterns that vary depending on the individual artisan’s creativity. The patterns often take inspiration from impressions of nature and its flowers, plants, and animals. The primary dyes used in Mudmee from the Northeast include yellow from jackfruit, red from lac, and indigo from “khram” (คราม), local plants with deep blue pigments. These natural dyes are not only visually striking, but also culturally significant; they serve as markers used to indicate and differentiate ethnic groups in this region as each tribe possesses its own patterns. Therefore, Mudmee is a true art that weaves together the local wisdom and cultural richness of Isan.

• Central region

Central Thailand is considered the country’s rice cradle with rivers that keep grains nourished throughout the year. Natural resources serving as key materials for dyes are mostly derived from plants in mixed deciduous forests and mangrove forests, such as teak, rosewood, “prong” (ปรง), and ebony fruit.

The fertile Chao Phraya River basin drew many communities, both Thai and foreign, to live alongside the mighty river. During the reign of King Rama V (1868-1910), black satin pants made with ebony dye became a common piece of clothing, influenced by the traditional costumes of the Chinese community. Mudmee (มัดหมี่) is also popular in this region.

• Southern region

Characterized as a coastal area, the Southern region of Thailand experiences high levels of rainfall and humidity which contribute to dense mangrove and beach forests. This distinct landscape offers a different range of plants used as a fundamental material for dyes like Indian almond, “samed chun” (เสม็ดชุน), and “taboon” (ตะบูน).

 

Samed chun (เสม็ดชุน)

Cr. thairath

 

Taboon (ตะบูน)

Cr. medthai

 

Both cultural and environmental uniqueness brought about a well-known cloth called “Pha Yok Dok” (ผ้ายกดอก), a fabric woven by a traditional loom. The primary dyes in Pha Yok Dok come from taboon, a sea plant. Besides dyes from bark, local weavers also extract colors from other plants and fruits to dye fabrics, for example, green from bitter bean, orange from ripe mangosteen, pink from rose apple, and bright yellow from jackfruit. But their knowledge does not end there. Beyond dyeing techniques, Southern artisans also mastered the art of using natural stimulants or mordants such as alum, alkali water, mud, or rusty water to fix the dyes onto the fabrics and also to create darker shades.

 

Pha Yok Dok (ผ้ายกดอก)

Cr. lamphun

List of Materials

We will now explore examples of dye materials in traditional Thai textiles, and the processes involved in extracting their colors onto fabrics.

 

1. Lac Dye: “Rak (รัก)” 

 

Pantone: 1955C

Cr. avacecolours

 

Known for its vibrant red hue, lac dye is one of the most popular animal dyes used in Thai textiles. Lacs are small insects that inhabit tree branches and feed on tree sap. As the lacs feed, they excrete a natural substance called shellacs which contain pigments and organic acids that produce the color red. In some provinces, the locals even feed lacs specifically for dye production purposes. To extract the red dye, the hot dyeing technique is applied. Artisans start by cleaning the shellacs in order to get rid of crumbs or wood before grinding or pounding them into small pieces. They then soak the ground shellacs in water overnight and filter them through a white cloth. Afterwards, they put the heat on the lac dye again before adding yarns and coloring agents such as tamarind pulp into the pot. After an hour, once the yarns are rinsed with warm water and dried out, the red-dyed fabrics are ready for weaving.

 

2. Indian Almond Leaf: “Hu Kwang (หูกวาง)” 

 

Pantone: 7746 C

Cr. icolorpalette

 

Indian almond is a typical plant found in mangrove and beach forests in Southern Thailand. Nowadays, Indian almond trees are grown across the country due to their versatile uses, including being a source of natural dye. Indian almond trees contain yellowish-green pigments. While other parts of the tree, such as the bark and fruit, can be used for dyeing, leaves are most favored. In producing Indian almond dye, artisans employ the hot dyeing technique to extract its yellowish-green color. They begin the process by chopping leaves and boiling them in hot water until the yellow and green pigments are dissolved. Once the water turns green, they strain the dye through white cloth to remove the leaves. The dye is reheated before clean fabrics are placed into the pot. As the pigments settle into the fabrics, coloring agents are added to enhance durability. After an hour, a beautiful cloth adorned with a yellowish-green hue becomes visible.

 

3. Golden Shower Pod: “Koon (คูณ)” 

 

Pantone: 410C

Cr. avacecolours

 

Golden shower trees, known in Thai as “koon” (คูณ) or “rachaphruek” (ราชพฤกษ์), is the national plant of Thailand. The trees provide not only medicinal benefits, but also serve as a vital source of natural plant-based dye in Thai fabrics. The golden shower pods are rich in pigments that create brown hues. To extract the brown dye, both cool dyeing and hot dyeing techniques can be used. For cool dyeing, the process starts from the dyers collecting golden shower pods that have fallen onto the ground before pounding them until the shells are cracked open. They continue to soak those crushed shells in water overnight until the water turns brown. Before dyeing, dyers must filter this brown solution through a white cloth to remove particles and ensure a smooth coloring on the fabrics. Once purified, they immerse clean fibers into the dye, allowing the brownish pigments to absorb thoroughly. Similarly, in hot dyeing, once the dyers crack the pods and boil them in hot water, the colored water is filtered to remove impurities. When the dyeing process begins, the dye is heated again before dyeing on the fibers. However, due to the heat exposure, dyers may obtain a slight variation in the shade of brown, either dark or light.

 

4. Burma Padauk: “Pradu (ประดู่)” 

 

Pantone: 4715C

Cr. avacecolours

 

Burma padauk trees are typical plants growing in evergreen forests scattered across the country. These trees are deeply connected to the traditional Thai way of life and play an integral part in both local industry and artistry. In Thai textiles, Burma padauk is another significant source of dye as the trees contain rich reddish-brown pigments. In producing reddish-brown dye, artisans often employ the hot dyeing technique. They start from cracking the padauk bark to release its rich sap. Then they soak the cracked bark in a boiling pot, simmering for an hour until brown pigments seep out. After the dye is filtered with a white cloth, it is heated again in order to obtain the reddish-brown water for dyeing fabric. For a brighter shade, some dyers may add coloring agents such as alum or lime juice mixed with turmeric to increase vibrancy.

 

5. Myrobalan Bark: “Smor (สมอ)”

 

Pantone: 618C

Cr. avacecolours

 

The myrobalan tree is regarded as the king of herbs due to its extensive medicinal properties. But beyond that, myrobalan trees are a favored source of plant-based dye that has been widely used among Thai dyers for many generations. Myrobalan trees contain pigments that create black and blackish-green hues. The most preferable part, where the blackish-green pigments are most intense, is the bark. However, in dyeing fabrics with myrobalan bark, dyers typically expect to obtain a brownish-green dyed cloth.

In producing the dye, artisans use the hot dyeing technique, starting by soaking the bark in hot water and simmering it until it becomes dry. When the rich blackish-green hue seeps out, they filter out impurities to keep only the colored water. However, to achieve a brownish-green shade from myrobalan, an additional step is required; artisans must dye the fibers with an indigo dye first. Together, the blue hue from indigo blending with the blackish-green hue from myrobalan create a new shade, a brownish green. As the fabrics are soaked in the dye bath, the dyers constantly agitate the fabrics to achieve consistent coloration. For long-lasting and brighter color, they usually add table salt or alum as color-fixing agents.

 

6. Teak: “Sak (สัก)” ใบสัก

 

Pantone: 7612C

Cr. icolorpalette

 

Teak, a large perennial plant, is a highly valued wood among Thai people. Prized as a woodwork material, teak also plays an important role in enhancing textile artistry. What makes teak a special material for dyeing is that each part of the tree provides different colors and shades. The heartwood produces a khaki hue, while leaves offer a wide range of colors from red to brown depending on their freshness, the pH balance of coloring agents, and the dyeing process used. The most favored part for dyeing are the leaves.

To produce brown dye from teak leaves, the traditional hot dyeing technique is familiar among dyers. They normally begin the process by cutting or chopping teak leaves before boiling them in hot water. As these small particles are exposed to the heat, colored pigments seep out. After an hour, they filter the dye through a white cloth to remove impurities, leaving only colored water. However, when dyeing cloths, dyers need to be careful of the coloring agents added as they can lead to color variation. For example, if they add junsi or copper sulfate, the dye turns olive green or brownish-green. On the contrary, if they add either salt, tamarind pulp, or rusty water, it results in a light brown hue.

 

7. Jackfruit Core: “Kaen Kanun (แก่นขนุน)”

 

Pantone: 1375C

Cr. avacecolours

 

Jackfruit is believed to be a sacred plant that brings support and auspiciousness to its owner. Besides spiritual power, jackfruit cultivation is widespread for the various benefits that can be harvested from its fruits and cores. In the Thai textile industry, jackfruit trees are a crucial source of yellow dye. This bright yellow is derived from their cores which contain pigments that produce the color.

The hot dyeing technique is used to obtain yellow dye from jackfruit trees. Locals begin the process by chopping jackfruit cores into pieces and letting them dry in the sun. Once the cores are dried, they soak the cores and boil them in hot water for an hour. When the water turns yellow, they filter the dye water through a clean cloth to remove dirt. They then put the yellow dye on heat again, place the fibers into the pot, and simmer them for another hour. When the dyeing process is completed, the yellow-dyed fabrics are dipped in water mixed with color-fixing agents such as alum, junsi, ash water, rust water or mud water to firmly set the colors into the cloths.

 

8. Tembusu: “Kran Krao (กรันเกรา)” 

 

Dyeing Kran Krao

Cr. chobmai

 

Kran Krao is another traditional sacred plant growing throughout Thailand as it provides high-quality wood with a fine texture best-suited for woodcrafts and household items. Beyond the benefits in craftsmanship, kran krao is another vital source of yellow that is widely used in the textile industry. Unlike other sources of yellow dye, kran krao produces a different, lighter shade of yellow.

To obtain the light-yellow dye, locals often employ the hot dyeing technique. They start the process by chopping kran krao bark or leaves into smaller pieces and boiling them in hot water for about an hour. As the pigments release and evenly dissolve in water, they filter the dye through a clean white cloth to remove wood scraps and leaves. Afterwards, the yarns are dipped in the dye bath, allowing them to absorb the light-yellow pigments. Throughout the process, dyers need to constantly turn over or agitate the yarns to ensure consistent coloring. After an hour, for a brighter tone and better color fixation, the fabrics should be further immersed in a solution mixed with alum. Once all is done, a beautiful golden cloth is achieved.

 

9. Cockspur Thorn: “Khe (เข)” 

 

Pantone: 7413C

Cr. avacecolours

 

Khe or “Kaelae” (แกแล) is classified as a small perennial tree with thorny branches. In Thailand, these small perennial trees can be found in evergreen forests scattered across the country. Rich in yellow pigments, khe trees are prized among dyers as an important source of natural dye in the Thai textile artistry; local dyers often use the cores to produce a dark yellow dye.

Making dye from khe involves hot dyeing. Locals begin with careful selection of the cores as the color may vary depending on freshness; older cores, which yield a darker yellow tone, are preferable for dying purposes. When the selection process is completed, they leave the khe cores to dry in the sun. When it is time to begin the dyeing process, they chop the dried cores and put them in hot water, boiling them for an hour until the water turns yellow. For a clear yellow dye, the locals filter the colored water through a white cloth to get rid of impurities and wood scraps. Once clean, they soak the fabrics in the dye bath. After an hour, the fabrics transform into a bright yellow hue. For a darker tone, dyers may repeat the dyeing process until the desirable shade is reached.

 

10. Bellyache Bush Leaf: “Sabuluead (สบู่เลือด)” 

 

Pantone: 582C

Cr. avacecolours

 

Bellyache bushes have recently been embraced by the Thai textile industry as a source of natural dye. Unlike most natural dyes that create a variety of shades, bellyache bushes stand out for their unique green hue which is derived from their leaves. What makes these plants even more interesting is that they can produce a green dye without needing indigo as a fundamental base.

To create the green hue, local artisans usually apply the hot dyeing approach. They start the process by chopping bellyache leaves and boiling them in high temperatures until the yellowish-green pigments are released and dissolved in the water. The locals then filter the dye, leaving only the green-colored water. In the dyeing process, they reheat the dye before placing clean yarn into the pot. During this phase, to obtain a light green or olive-green hue, some dyers may add junsi. For a darker shade, dyers add tamarind pulp which contains acids to help deepen the color. The dyeing process typically takes around 30 minutes to an hour. When all is done, the green-dyed fabrics are washed and dried.

 

11. Thai Pomegranate: “Tubtim (ทับทิม)” 

 

Pantone: 459C

Cr. avacecolours

 

Beyond its delicious taste, pomegranates also play a crucial role in the Thai textile industry. Pomegranate fruits can produce a light-green color, which is rare among the dye colors. This unexpected discovery helped open up a new alternative path for textile-makers to dye fabrics by using fruit-based dye instead of the typical plant-based dye.

To produce light-green dye from pomegranate, hot dyeing is applied. Dyers begin the process by peeling or chopping the pomegranates. They then boil the chopped pieces in hot water for about 30 minutes until the water turns green. When the dye reaches the right shade, it is filtered with a white cloth to remove remnants, keeping only the green-colored water. After that, dyers put the fabrics into the pot, soaking them until the rich green dye thoroughly coats the clean fibers. After an hour or more, the pigments fully adhere to the fabrics, creating an eye-catching green cloth.

 

12. Lotus Petal: “Dok Bua (ดอกบัว)”

 

Pantone: #f1e7d9

Cr. icolorpalette

 

Lotuses have a deep connection to Thai culture and its traditional way of life. In Thai textiles, lotus petals serve as natural materials with almost every part usable for dyeing.  The colors vary depending on their dryness or the specific part used; lotus stems produce a silver shade while lotus petals create a light golden hue. However, the petals are used more commonly than the stems.

In Northeast Thailand, particularly in Udon Thani province, local artisans have created and developed lotus petal-dyed fabrics as their signature product. Dyeing with lotus petals commonly involves hot dyeing. Locals start by boiling petals in hot water, allowing pigments to evenly dissolve in water. They then remove the petals, leaving only clear colored water. During the dyeing process, the dye water is put on heat again before the yarns are added. After that, the local dyers leave the fibers to soak in the dye bath for an hour or more until they reach the desired shade. For a darker tone, dyers may have to sun-dry lotus petals before boiling because, unlike other materials in which pigments fade over time, the older and drier lotus petals are, the darker and brighter the dye obtained.

 

13. Mulberry Fruit: “Luk Mhon (ลูกหม่อน)” 

 

Pantone: #620843

Cr. stylebyemilyhenderson

 

Mulberry, a small perennial tree, is known as a natural food source for silkworms, which many local artisans cultivate to produce silk fibers for weaving. It can be said that together, mulberry trees and silkworms play a vital role in the Thai textile industry. Besides being a natural feed for silkworms, mulberry trees are planted for dye production. Purple in Thai textiles is rare since there are few materials that contain such pigments. However, with their high levels of vitamins and natural acids, mulberries contain purple pigments which are derived from their fruit. Thus, mulberries are used as one of the major sources of purple dye in Thai fabrics.

Hot dyeing is used to dye cloth with mulberries. In extracting purple dye from mulberries, dyers often begin by harvesting ripe mulberry fruits with a blackish-purple hue. They then squeeze the ripe mulberries to extract their juices, which are boiled in water and filtered through a white cloth. As the dyeing process begins, dyers put the dye on heat again and soak the fibers in the dye bath, boiling them for another hour. Once the pigments thoroughly seep into the fibers, creating the desired shade, the dyeing process is completed. However, it should be noted that purple pigments are very sensitive to light and washing. To maintain durability and long-lasting color, dyers often soak the fabrics in alum.

 

14. Turmeric: “Khamin Chun (ขมิ้นชัน)” 

 

Pantone: 7405 C

Cr. avacecolours

 

Turmeric is a garden plant widely cultivated in Thai households for their medicinal and culinary uses. In Thai textile artistry, turmeric is another favored source of yellow dye due to its richness in curcumin, a special substance that produces yellow pigments. These yellow pigments come from its roots.

In producing yellow dye, local dyers often employ hot dyeing. They begin by grinding the turmeric roots into smaller pieces. Those ground roots are soaked overnight until the bright yellow hue is evenly dissolved in water. Once the water reaches the perfect shade, dyers filter the dye to remove impurities to ensure smooth coloring. When the dyeing process is conducted, dyers reheat the turmeric dye and place the yarns into the pot before boiling them for an hour. After an hour, the cloth achieves a yellow hue. For long-lasting color, some dyers may add lime juice or copper sulfate to enhance durability.

 

15. Garcinia: “Pra Hod (ประโหด)” 

 

Pra Hod Colour

Cr. tudsinjai

 

Pra Hod is a local plant growing in evergreen forests, especially in Eastern Thailand. Known for its rich pigments, pra hod is a popular material used among dyers to create a bright yellow dye. This vibrant yellow hue is derived from the bark, leaves, and fruit. But beyond the yellow coloring, pra hod also serves as a natural coloring base that can blend with other colors to create green hues.

To produce yellow dye, local artisans normally employ hot dyeing. They begin the process by chopping their bark, leaves, or fruit before boiling them in hot water to extract the yellow pigments. When the solution reaches the desired shade, they filter the dye through a white cloth. During the dyeing process, local artisans reheat the yellow dye and soak the yarns in the dye bath while adding alum to intensify vibrancy and color fixation. The yarns are boiled for another hour to absorb the rich pigments. Once completed, the result is a bright yellow cloth.

 

16. Hom Indigo (ห้อม) 

 

Hom Indigo

Cr. museumthailand

 

Indigo dye is considered one of the most significant dyes in Thai textile artistry. Due to the scarcity of materials producing indigo pigments, the color is sought-after and highly valued among dyers. In Thai fabrics, the indigo dye is traditionally derived from two plants: “Hom” (ห้อม) and “khram” (คราม). Hom, known scientifically as Baphicacanthus cusia Brem, is a local annual crop growing in cold weather in Northern Thailand. This plant, including its stem and leaves, yields pigments that produce a dark blue color.

In producing indigo dye from Hom, local dyers employ a cool fermentation dyeing technique. The dyeing process begins with dyers soaking the plants in water and applying pressure to extract the color. Overnight, the blue pigments gradually seep out and dissolve in water. When the water turns blue and emits a funky smell, the dyers remove the plants, leaving only the dye water. They then add alkali water or lime into the bath to make it precipitate. The sediment lying at the bottom of the bath is called “wet hom” (ห้อมเปียก), a blue mud. The dyers keep only the blue mud for dyeing purposes as it serves as the key material for the following step, called “kor mor hom” (ก่อหม้อห้อม). In this phase, dyers place wet hom in the dye vat and pour ash water or lime into the bath, mixing them together until the dye begins to bubble. After leaving it overnight, the indigo dye is ready for dyeing.

 

17. Khram Indigo (คราม) 

 

Pantone: 2955C

Cr. avacecolours

 

Another significant source of indigo dye in Thai textiles comes from “khram” (คราม). Khram, known by its scientific names, Indigo tinctoria and Indigofera suffruticosa, is a native plant growing in Northeast Thailand. Due to the vibrancy of its deep blue pigments, khram is widely used among local artisans for both dye production and dyeing. Khram’s blue dye also serves as a fundamental coloring base that most dyers use to expand the color palette, especially for green hues.

Extracting indigo dye from khram requires special care, starting from the cultivation phase. One crucial guideline is that, to obtain a bright blue indigo, the harvest must take place before sunrise, with the morning dew still resting on the leaves. Otherwise, the leaves may become too dry, with less color. In producing indigo dye, as with hom, local dyers typically employ the cool fermentation technique. They start the process by having khram plants pressed and soaked in the dye vat until the blue color leaks from the plants. They then add lime and simmer the solution until it evenly dissolves. This results in sediments collecting at the bottom. Those sediments are further transferred to the next process known as “kor mor khram” (ก่อหม้อคราม) or dye vat preparation.

During the “kor mor khram” procedure, dyers mix khram paste with alkali water and bark water and constantly “jok” (โจก), the action of scooping up and pouring down, the solution in order to add oxygen. They must continually jok the solution routinely. Over the course of a week, the indigo dye gradually turns yellowish-green; the change of color signals that the fermentation is at the right stage to begin the dyeing process. Apart from dye vat preparation, dyers must prioritize vat care to maintain dye quality; otherwise, the indigo dye may degrade. To keep the indigo bath healthy, oxygenation is an essential element. Cool dyeing or fermentation requires natural interaction. Adding oxygen by regularly jok-ing the indigo vat helps feed the microorganisms in the dye vat, and thus indigo dye quality is preserved. If the indigo bath loses chemical and biological balance, local dyers often add sugar banana, sugar cane, a teaspoon of whisky rice or tamarind pulp to restore it.

Values Behind Techniques

Throughout the article, we can see that the most concrete value of Thai natural dyes is in the artistic significance that reflects through the beauty of the colors and fabrics. However, beneath the beauty of Thai textiles, there lie more profound values that resonate with our Thainess.

 

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• Local Wisdom

Behind those fine and exquisite Thai fabrics stand textile-makers who are brimming with knowledge and experience. Thai textiles and natural dyes are a testament to their ingenuity, creativity, and adaptability to nature. Drawing inspiration from their surroundings, local artisans have developed their extensive knowledge and skills in dyeing techniques and production. Also, not only have they mastered the art of dye-making and the dyeing process, they also fully acknowledge how to refine or improve the quality of the dyes. Passed down from generation to generation, this artistic local wisdom has become a cornerstone of Thai culture and heritage.

• Connection with Nature

Thai local wisdom is deeply tied to nature. The Thai way of life developed from harmonic coexistence between humans and nature, with the Thai ancestors learning to respect and adapt to their environments. Thai natural dyes are powerful testaments to the mutual relationship between the Thai people and their surroundings. Through countless generations, artisans amassed a thorough understanding of natural dyeing materials, honing them to maximize their beauty. As their livelihood depends on the surrounding resources, artisans are also active in preserving their community’s natural environment. With comprehension and adaptability, Thai natural dyes simultaneously honor nature and elevate its value.

• Sustainability

The fashion industry is often considered a significant contributor to environmental pollution. That does not seem to be the case for Thailand’s eco-friendly dye products developed from natural materials found across the country. Despite the vibrant hues of Thai textiles, traditional dyeing techniques have very little negative impact on the environment. By focusing on using natural organic and inorganic materials throughout the entire production cycle and promoting harmonic coexistence with local surroundings, Thai traditional dyers are promoting a form of sustainability.

Conclusion

Thai textiles are not just pieces of cloth, but are a cultural heritage possessing both great aesthetic and intrinsic value. The Thai way of life is weaved into the pieces, reflected through the creation of natural dyes and local dyeing techniques. With respect and adaptability, artisans from diverse regions have drawn inspiration from their surroundings and developed ingenuity in utilizing what nature provides to create handicrafts which, through time, become representations of local cultures and identities. The art of Thai dyeing not only celebrates the finesse of craftsmanship, but upholds the value of sustainability, delivering an alternative, more eco-mindful path for fashion. Through an exploration of Thai dyeing techniques and materials, this article humbly provides a mere glimpse into the world of Thai textiles. There is much more to discover and there is no better way than to experience it yourself!

For those who are enchanted by the magic of Thai textiles, you are very welcome to visit Thailand to appreciate the beauty of Thai fabrics with your own eyes. Perhaps you may even experience a dyeing workshop to unleash your creativity. Or you can learn more about Thai textiles on websites such as our Thailand Foundation website, Thailand Now or SACIT.

 

The story of “Dyeing Materials in Thai Textiles” represents a vibrant and beautiful aspect of Thai Culture and Heritage. The dyeing agents and techniques utilized by Thai artisans reflect the rich heritage in local wisdom, as well as a harmonious relationship with the natural world. Join us in exploring more stories of Thailand and its people, as we take you on a journey to discover the essence of Thainess.

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Sources:

• https://www.thailandotop.org/flipbook/?r3d=color-creation#1
• Donkoi model: from indigo & natural dye to a contemporary Thai textile collection book
• https://www.qsds.go.th/encyclopedia/viewWord.php?id_words=242
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• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MX3oZTyaZ5o
• https://thaitextile.org/th/insign/detail.1512.1.0.html
• https://www.seub.or.th/bloging/knowledge/วัสดุธรรมชาติ-สีแตกต่าง/
• http://122.154.22.188/webtreecolor/tree.php?idtree=21
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• https://www.saranukromthai.or.th/sub/book/book.php?book=15&chap=5&page=t15-5-infodetail03.html
• Tamilarasan, G. & Ramasubramaniam. (2019). STUDY ON EXTRACTION OF
  CEPHALOPOD’S INK FOR DYEING OF TEXTILE MATERIALS. Global Journal of Engineering Science and Research Management, 6(8), 31.

 

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Written By: Ratsamheetum Noola

Edited By: Tayud Mongkolrat

21 August 2024